Lisbon in 4 days: the classic done right

Lisbon has become fashionable, and with fashion came the queues. The good news is that the classic —Belém, Alfama, a fado, a day trip to Sintra— is still worth it if you do it smartly: get up early where you need to, and save the slow stuff for when everyone else is asleep. In four days there's no need to rush.

Day 1 · Baixa, Chiado and a viewpoint at sunset

Start gently on the flat centre: the Baixa rebuilt after the earthquake, Rua Augusta up to the arch, and Terreiro do Paço facing the river. Climb up to Chiado, have a coffee at A Brasileira without falling for the outside-table trap, and end the day at the Santa Catarina or São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint as the sun drops over the rooftops. Dine late: nobody here is in a hurry.

Day 2 · Belém, early

The trick with Belém is the hour. Arrive at nine and you'll see the Jerónimos Monastery almost queue-free; by midday the line wraps around the block. Pair it with the Belém Tower and, yes, a pastel de nata at the classic bakery —warm, with cinnamon— even if there's a queue: that one moves fast. Take the tram back and save the afternoon for the Alcântara district and LX Factory.

Day 3 · Alfama and real fado

Alfama is walked without a map: get lost in its alleys, climb to the Castle of São Jorge in the morning and come down stopping at every viewpoint. At night, look for a small fado house where people dine and fall silent when the fadista sings, not a coach-tour show. Book ahead: the good ones fill up.

Day 4 · Sintra without the stress

Sintra is unmissable and a trap in equal measure. The key: go on a weekday and buy your Pena Palace tickets online, with a time slot. Go up on bus 434 or a tuk-tuk if there are a few of you, start at the top (Pena) and work your way down to Quinta da Regaleira. Head back to Lisbon in the mid-afternoon and say goodbye with one last dinner by the river.

Lisbon's cobbles are slippery in the rain and deceptive on the hills. Comfortable shoes aren't advice, they're survival.

This whole plan, day by day and with the real notes on times and bookings, is saved in an itinerary you can copy to your account in one click. Adjust it to your dates and you leave with Lisbon sorted.